Hydro-Fracturing is a relatively new process that is becoming a very popular option for those who struggle with a low yielding well. Hydro-Fracturing is defined as, "pumping highly pressurized water down the well in an attempt to crack the rock formation inside and adjacent to the well." The fractures are occurrring in the well clear obstructions that may have previously been blocking veins of water from reaching the well. One reason that Hydro-Fracturing is so popular and successful is due to the fact that it is more controllable than other processes. Hydro-Fracturing allows for "zone frocks" which enables us to pick the area of the bedrock with the most potential for fracturing.
Hydro-Fracturing (or fracking) has been very successful. This process can turn a dry or low-yielding well into a productive investment for the future! However, not all wells can be Hydro-Fractured. Fracking is only an option if your well is primarily un-cased and in the bedrock. A minimum of 200 - 300 feet of rock is needed to work with for the best results. Due to the high pressure forced into the well fracturing needs to take place at least 50 feet below the casing to avoid blowing out the surface seal, lifting the casing, or fracturing all the way to the surface.
Well rehabilitation is another option if your yield has declined over time. Some of the causes of this could be iron bacteria, (rust built up plugging screens or perforations in the casing) or mineral and scale build up causing similar problems. A PH test and video inspection can tell us which actions to be taken to correct the problem.
Fogle Pump can help you with your well rehabilitation and any other well related conditions. We have the expertise and the tools to help rehabilitate your well and help you build back up your yield.
Deepening an existing well is sometimes an option. Many factors must be considered before we would recommend this. Some of the more important ones include: was the well originally drilled by a licensed driller and logged properly with the Department of Ecology? Is there a well log available showing construction details of the well and does it meet state standards? Does the formation require advancing the well casing (which is not always possible)? What is the accessibility of the well itself? Is it clear of buildings? Is it away from power lines? These are just a few of the questions one must consider when looking into deepening an existing well!
One way that we can help you determine the best option for you and your well is to research surrounding well logs for your area. That can tell us what kind of water is in the area. For example, if your well is 200 feet deep with 2 gallons per minute (gpm) and all of the surrounding wells are 60 - 80 feet with 10 - 15 gpm, we would probably recommend drilling another well at a new location on the property. On the other hand, if your well is 200 feet with 2 gpm and your neighbors are 300 - 400 feet with 10 gpm, we would probably recommend deepening the existing well.
The best place for us to start examining the best option for you is by looking at your well log. If you don't have we can locate it for you. In order to do this we need to have one of the following,
1. On newer wells an identification number can be found on the well itself; it is always 3 letters followed by 3 numbers. (AZT-398) It is a metal tag that should be either welded onto the casing or strapped onto the casing with a metal belt.
2. The previous owners of the property that had the well drilled.
3. The quarter sections (i.e. NW 1/4 of the NW 1/4) along with the Section, Township, and Range. This can be found on the deed to your home, your buyer's agreement or the property tax statement. If you have not purchased the home yet, it can be figured out by calling your realtor. They should have that information.
A reservoir tank is basically a timed collection system. There is no gamble with this option. It is a sure thing, if your well is making .5 gallons per minute that is 30 gallons per hour, or 360 gallons in 12 hours. While you are sleeping, at work, or otherwise not using your water, the reservoir will fill up.
They are generally a 2,000 - 3,000 gallon cement tank that is put into the ground. The idea is that once your tank is full, it will stay full with basic household use. However, you normally cannot irrigate unless you use a drip irrigation system or other conservative measures of irrigation. It is also added protection in case of fire. Fire trucks can suck the water out of your tank to fight forest fires in the area.